Saturday, January 25, 2014

Let's Talk About Sex: Part 2 (seems to be all I talk about anymore)

It has been quite a busy week for me. It has also been full of ups and downs. I started the week off with HIV education at Malonda Primary School. Primary school is what we would call elementary school. They have standards 1-8, so children are generally 6-14 in these grades; although there is a much greater mix of ages than in an American classroom. Many children struggle through school, I believe this has a lot to do with attendance rates, high classroom sizes (usually about 100 or more children per one teacher), uneducated parents, and education is not a high priority. So teaching HIV to such a wide age range per class is kind of a challenge. I of course did not go in with a specific plan, I am not a planner, I am also not a teacher, I am a nurse and I just like to use conversation as teaching tools. But I did know that small children do not have the attention span to listen and they need to be active and have different activities throughout the lesson. I first broke the class into 10 groups; I gave them paper and a crayon and asked them to draw what a person with HIV looked like. They all drew (well stick figures, but then described) a person with thinning hair, weak body, thin, skin problems, and sad. These are all correct symptoms of HIV in later stages and if a person’s CD4 count drops. I told them they were all correct, but what I wanted them to know was that HIV does not always look this way, a person with HIV can look like you and I. They can be healthy and happy. I told them there is now medicine that a person with HIV takes, this medicine helps them to be healthy, not pass the disease on to others, and live to be old grandpas and grandmas. Then we discussed why people with HIV are so sad. I told them about bullying and ostracizing behaviors and that it is wrong to treat a person with HIV this way. I also told them the ways you do not get HIV: holding hands, kissing, hugging, sharing a toilet, sleeping next to someone, sharing food and drinks, and just being close. I have learned that many people with HIV are ostracized by the community, I hate that children see these behaviors and copy them, what I hate worse is that the poor children with HIV have to suffer from the emotional abuse. I then had the children perform short dramas, one person was HIV positive and the second person was negative, the HIV negative person would not let the positive person be his friend anymore. Then I had a discussion with the children on how that made the HIV positive person feel, they all knew he felt sad and that it was wrong. The second play we added a third person, when this person heard the positive person being bullied they came over and put their arm around the positive person and said he would be her friend. I then ended the class with a  small talk about bullying behaviors and asked the children to promise not to bully anyone.
I was impressed with the children and their knowledge, even at such a young age they knew that unprotected sex transmits HIV, blood transfusions can transmit HIV (which I later had to tell the older kids that most blood is screened and if they need a blood or organ transfusion they are probably very sick and could die without it. I said if it were me I would risk contracting HIV over dying.). But I also learned in standard 5 many of them did not know what sexual intercourse is. Because of the high rate of HIV transmission in the country the government has added what they call life skills into their curriculum. This teaches sex ed and about HIV/AIDS. But I do not think all teachers are teaching it thoroughly, which is understandable, talking to kids about sex can be very uncomfortable. At the standard 5 level I realized they were being very reserved and nobody had any questions. I used a tip I had heard before, I gave all of them a blank sheet of paper and they had to either write a question or “no question” on the paper. About 15 children in the class had the question what is sexual intercourse. I realized this is the hardest question for me to answer, well it was at first, now I have said it so many times I probably say it in my sleep. When I am asked this question I explain oral sex, vaginal sex, and anal sex. I believe many times children are only taught about vaginal sex, I want to make sure when they get the information from me they know all of the ways HIV and other STDs can be transmitted. The children did all know the right answers to the questions, what is HIV, what are ARVs, how HIV is prevented, how is HIV spread. So I know they are much more educated then they were in the past, I just do not think the teachers are taking the time to answer questions or thoroughly explain what they are saying. I think children are saying the answers like they would recite a times table or the alphabet, more from memory than from understanding; this scares me.
I spent two days total at the primary school. I had an amazing translator for those days; Jonas. He was very good at speaking to the kids and translated everything I said without a bit of hesitation or embarrassment, this is what I needed. After my second day at the primary school I went to do some home visits with the health volunteers. I did this one afternoon last week as well, I was in the village surrounding my house, I saw only elderly people that day. In the village around Malonda primary school (this village is about four miles up a hill from my house) I saw one 99 (!) year old woman, and two adolescents who are HIV positive. The 99 year old woman was very sweet, she could still walk around using a large stick as a cane, and her sister’s children assisted her. She was never able to have any children of her own, which I can imagine the controversy that stirred up back in her days. Even now when a woman cannot have a child they send the woman to have sex with other men to see if she can get pregnant. If she cannot her husband usually leaves her for someone who can have children. I told her many people suffer from infertility and it was not by any fault of her own, I also told her the reason she lived to be 99 so far is because she did not have any children to stress her out her whole life. Her only complaints were pain in her ankles and fingers, she told me it was from working hard in the garden her whole life (smart woman, most of them want to blame it on something else, or have no idea why their backs would hurt, carrying about 200 pounds or more per day on their head surely has nothing to do with it). I then went to visit a 13 year old girl who is HIV positive. Her mother had dies many years ago from AIDs. Her grandmother was her guardian now. I asked the girl if she knew how she got HIV, she was very shy but she eventually said no. I told her it came from her mother when she was a baby and that it was not her fault. Then we talked about her ARVs, her grandmother said the girl takes them herself without being asked now. I then asked her grandmother if she had talked to the girl about sex and what her future holds for her. The grandmother said no, she has not told her about sex, she is too embarrassed to talk to her. I asked the grandmother if I could tell the child was sex was, she very enthusiastically said yes! The child had apparently just been told do not have sex, well that does not work when a kid does not know what it is. I explained to her what sex was, she acted as a normal thirteen year old girl would, was very shy and seemed embarrassed. Her grandmother thanked me for talking to her and said that it would help her to be more open with her in the future and she would try to continue to have conversations with her. Then I saw a 14 year old boy and his mother whom are both HIV positive. The boy is very bright and very talkative; I could tell he has a lot of worries though. I talked to him about school and what people were saying at school. He says that some people know he is HIV positive and people in the community tell girls not to be his girlfriend because he is HIV positive. This made me very sad. I told the boy, he does not have to worry about having a girlfriend, he is more than able to have a girlfriend, and one day, many, many days away, when he is ready to have sex he can. We talked about how his ARVs reduce the transmission rate as long as they are keeping his CD4 count up and his viral load low. I told him even in the future if he wanted to marry a HIV negative woman it is very possible, they could even have children, with his wife having a huge possibility of remaining negative and their children being negative. He said that was all good, but he is not worried about having a girlfriend right now, they usually want sweeties and he does not have time for that, he has homework to do. His mother thanked me very much for coming to speak with them and giving both her and her son hope for the future, she gave me a load of peanuts from her garden as a thank you gift. I saw the boy the next day as I was riding my bike; she smiled very brightly and said, “Hello madam! How are you?!” It was good to see him out with the other kids.
The third day of teaching was with the secondary school kids (high schoolers), I knew I would have my work cut out for me this day but I thought surely I could get them all taught in eight hours right? I started their class with breaking up into ten groups and having a quiz on HIV. They also knew many facts and I felt understood the teaching very well. I ended my quiz with how many people are living in America with HIV a bit over 1 million and how many people do they think are living in Central/Southern Africa with HIV the answer is almost 28 million (I got these facts from the Tropical Handbook of Medicine, they are from the year 2006, I mainly wanted to give them a comparison). I explained to them that numbers of HIV infected people are three times higher than even the second highest place in the world. I then asked the question why? I always first got poverty; they explained that girls are sex workers to make money. I said this is not a good excuse; they have free medical care and condoms available. So I do not think that is the problem. Then I got premarital sex. Nope, not good enough excuse. I said everywhere in the world premarital sex is huge (I had also explained that having only one partner does not exclude you from having contracting HIV, I said HIV does not only happen to people who have sex with many people, the one person you have sex with can be HIV positive.). Finally I got the answer lack of education, I said yes maybe, but you are all being taught in schools now and you know how HIV is transmitted and prevented. Another child said lack of guidance and counseling, yes! I asked who should be talking to you that are not talking to you. Before my translator could even translate a child said, our parents. In many cultures in Africa it is a shameful thing to talk to your children about sex, I believe the only education these kids get is either in schools or through learning negative cultural practices. None of the classes got the second part that I wanted to discuss and that was the stigma and attitude towards HIV in their communities. I said the attitude of it being a shameful and terrible disease is what is keeping people from knowing their status, therefor they are not on ARVs when needed, this is why viral loads are high and transmission happens. I then let all of the children ask any sex, relationship, and HIV question they wanted on the piece of paper. I got so many questions! Some examples are:
Why does sex feel good?
Why is sex good?
Why do people want to have sex?
My parents said if I wait 7 days after my period I can have sex without a condom and not get pregnant is this true?
Does a man have to be on top during sex?
Why does sex hurt the first time for most girls?
Why do all of the girls in standard 2 want to have sex with older men? I made the class answer this one, they said penis size, experience, and sometimes their parents make them do it for money.
Does it feel different when having sex with a circumcised vs and uncircumcised man?
What age is it ok to have sex?
Why does everyone say that youth cannot be in relationships?
Why do people say HIV is in my future? (This one made me very sad.)
Do people with HIV have sexual feelings?
If you say we can have a relationship without sex and we can kiss and hug, what should we do when we get sexual feelings?
Should I tell people I have HIV?
How do I get my parents to talk to me about sex?
Should we practice sex with our friends to get better?
Then, Madame I want you to be my girlfriend. And another one, without you there is nothing. Oh teenagers!
I answered all questions the best I could without a bias or with my morals. I also made sure to explain that sex is not a bad or dirty thing. I hate that is so often what we teach children. I always say in the right circumstances sex can be great. You just have to make sure you are ready for it. Each session with these classes took about 2.5 hours. I was exhausted after each one. I would ask the kids if they were sick of talking about sex, they would all scream no! I think they really loved it, I have never seen groups of 100 plus teenagers so engaged. With all of the groups many of them had to miss breaks, be over an hour and a half late to lunch, and then stay after school; none of them seemed to mind one bit. I am hoping these talks did some good and that more kids will get tested and if they choose to have sex do so safely. I am still planning on having a talk with the girls, I have thought about coming up with a survey to hand out which they do not have to include their name. I want to know what activities these girls are engaging in and then I can do further lessons based on the information.
So those were the ups of the week, the downs were not major; I can just feel myself become much quicker to be annoyed. I think after seven and a half months in Malawi I am sometimes tired of dealing with the same shit every day.  I was supposed to be at the school by 7:30 on Monday morning. Like I said it is about 4 miles straight up a hill. Mary had said I could borrow a bike from her, she was at my house at 6:15 to confirm, I said I would come over at 6:45 to get the bike. I went at 6:45 and she said her husband took it and I would have to wait thirty minutes, this is fine, but she should have told me they needed it and I could have walked to the school. So I waited an hour and she finally came over to say the bike was back. She then told me that a woman had a one month old baby and her milk had not come in so she was never able to breastfeed. Apparently the hospital told her to feed the baby water and her milk would come in, well this pissed me off. Mary wanted to go get some formula we had in the library and give it to her, I said yes, do that. She then thought I was going to go with her, this would have taken at least an hour. It made me more annoyed, she knew I had to be at the school by 7:30 it was already 7:45 and I had to cycle there. The concept of being on time does not exist in this country and I am getting a bit tired of it. Then I got to get on the bike, the seat is pretty high for me, and there are no pedals, so it is hurting my feet to pedal against the bars. My skirt then begins to get wrapped up in the chain. I was pissed at this point, I did not throw the bike because it does not belong to me, but I did scream “cock sucker” at it as least once as people were passing by. Thank goodness nobody speaks English and also not terrible things like that, I also do not know why cock sucker is so bad or what I resort to when I am mad, but it is usually what I call inanimate objects when I hate them. My wheeling duffel bag has been a cock sucker many times. Finally I had to walk a bit up the hill and it cooled me down a bit, well not really cooled me down, I was drenched in sweat. But I then came up with the idea of tying my skirt in a knot and it was much easier. I was done being angry that day. But then that night I felt sad for some reason. I think it is just hard to live alone all of the time. I did it a lot in KC but I also had my dogs and the option to go see friends when I wanted. Also working with people and being social there was a great help as well. It is not that I cannot be social here; when I am social it is mainly with children who do not speak English or with adults with whom there is a huge cultural gap. It just makes it hard some days. But I also know that I am much happier doing the work here than I would be at home right now and most days I am very comfortable and content.
Then on Wednesday a man came to the school to say that my solar panel was broken. At first I thought he was talking about how Mary wanted to switch out my battery or something, it had been having problems. Strangely on Tuesday night it worked great, I even thought to myself, this is like when old people walk for the first time in 10 years the day before they die. I knew it was not a good sign, but I chose to ignore it and get every last bit of power out of it that I could. I then thought he meant somebody broke into my house and tried to steal the battery. I was not convinced that this would actually happen. I literally leave things in the yard all day, I have people in and out of my house and nobody has ever looked twice at my things. Mr. Mhango said this is a major problem we should go investigate. I said, even if somebody stole all of my things, what am I going to do? How is it going to be any different than if I go home and see the problem now or if I finish teaching for the day? So I finished teaching and came home and asked Mary what happened. She said the battery exploded. I went home to find my stuff everywhere and battery acid all over the floor. I was thankful that I was not home, especially not in the room, I am sure I would have been injured. People days later are still asking me about the explosion at my house, it was heard all over the village. Ester (the woman that brings me water) helped clean up while I went with the girls to get my water (yes 9 year old girls can carry more on their head than I can). There is a film of battery acid all over my floor still. My dad and uncle told me to use baking soda to try to get it off; I have bought some today, so I know what I will be doing most of my day tomorrow. So I am not able to charge my phone or computer right now at home. I one day charged it at Mary’s and another day took it to the stand about a mile away from my house to have it charged, it costs about 10 cents. Not being able to use my phone nearly as much and not have my computer is making me feel even more isolated. Thank goodness for books, I have been going through them at an alarming rate; they are keeping me very entertained. I am on my fifth book in about three weeks; this one is 555 pages so it is going to take me about four days instead of the standard two right now.  I have spoken to the founder about my issue with the battery and that I cannot afford 250 dollars to buy a new one, I believe they are going to provide one for me! It will be nice to have a decent battery for once.
Thursday morning I went to nearest clinic to get condoms to hand out at the dance we were having on Friday. I have been told the health personal that work in the village will not give condoms to teens; they feel it encourages them to have sex. Of course this makes me angry, no teen says, well now that I got this condom I am going to go out right now and have sex. Even if it does for a few, it more importantly is protecting those whom are having sex without condoms because they do not have easy access to any. So I walked the 6.5 miles (well I ran there with my backpack and walked home because of the heat and the eggs in my bag) to get condoms for distribution. Then that afternoon I was supposed to have a meeting with the girls, Mary said I could have the bike in the afternoon, once again it was not available on time. I wanted to tell Mr. Mhango that there was no way I could walk and make it on time to meet with the girls before school was over, my phone was dead, I had no credit, and it was pouring down rain. I ended up doing a very Malawian thing; I just did not show up. I got my phone charged and got bored of sitting in my house so I went to Mary’s that evening, the children were playing, and older girls were working on pounding maize for flour and then separating the kernels from the parts that have been crushed. I got to learn how to do all of these things.
The next morning I took the morning off. I felt like I needed it. Then in the afternoon was the dance. Lots of kids showed up and they had a good time. I spent most of my time holding sleeping babies so their siblings could dance. Anytime I tried to dance everyone stopped and made a circle around and just stared. I am only ok with this when I have had about 7 double rum and diets; we unfortunately were not serving alcohol there. Then I decided to hand out condoms. What a nightmare, the little kids were trying to snatch them and I was being pushed and shoved. One kid tried to rip them out of my hands. I lost it. I hated being disrespected after going through all of that trouble to try to help them. I know the kids did not know what they were or why they could not get them, but they certainly can still have manners. I grabbed one kid by the arm and starting yelling. It did not make much of a difference. Then I had teenagers telling me that three was not enough. This also made me mad, I said if I can walk 6.5 miles to get condoms for you, you can certainly walk your ass there and get them yourself. All of that aside, I am glad some people will be having safe sex, at least three times. I do want to have a place in the villages where condoms can be handed out; I am going to look into it.  
The icing on the cake was at 1:30 in the morning when I woke up because a three inch cockroach was crawling in my hair. It freaked me out and I did not go back to sleep for about an hour. Then of course my door was being pounded on at 5:20 this morning. I just wanted to sleep in one day, I ended up going back to sleep until seven thirty, I almost felt guilty for sleeping that late. I have now come into town and done my grocery shopping for the week. I am also taking advantage of charging everything! I am not sure what this week will bring. I think I will go to the primary school near my house for HIV education there; hopefully I will have the girls meeting, and conduct some surveys. I believe we are also going to visit with some government officials about the clinic this week; it is as slow of a process as I thought it would be.
Mr. Mhango also told me I am an expert on teaching HIV; he says I need to write a book on how to teach HIV/sex education in Africa. At first I thought he was crazy, but now I realize it is not that bad of an idea. Maybe once I get a solar panel I will work on putting together some sort of guide and teaching manual. I know something needs to change the way it is taught. I certainly cannot go to every school in this continent to do the education!

And if you do not want to read all of that. Here are some pictures to look at instead. 
97 year old patient I saw, she has 52 grandchildren.

Home visits.

Of course I had to play with the kids, I only saw old people all day!

Another 97 year old patient. 

Assessing a child at the HIV support group. 

Clara is a baby lover too.

Too cool for school.

Group work during HIV education.

99 year old patient. 

HIV education with secondary school kids. 

Pounding maize, talk about a good arm workout.

Learning to sort the kernels with the ground parts, I was only allowed small portions after a few spills. 

Of course I got my hands on a baby as soon as possible. 

Karista and I on baby duty. 

Getting ready to hand out condoms. 

Mr. Mhango dancing with a kid. 

Oh yeah, that is another kid on my lap. 

A view I could get used to.

Saturday, January 18, 2014

Lessons Learned:Village Edition

I think the reason I now feel more adjusted to village life is because of a few lessons learned.

1      Everything is dirty. No matter how many times I wash it, or try to keep it clean it will never be clean. This especially includes my feet and the inside of my elbows. I swear immediately after showering there is dirt all over me. I have learned there is nothing I can do and I just live with it.

      Dishes fall into the above category. They are not clean either. I am washing them in a bucket that sits in my house, with water from a bucket that has been sitting there for some time as well. If the dish looks relatively clean it is good enough for me.

3      This rule at first applied to cups and bottles too. It no longer applies. After becoming ill I learned a very valuable lesson. Only drink out of clean water bottles and only drink treated water! I now have a bottle that filters water, so I can refill from boreholes on long walks! I love it more than a crack addict loves his pipe. (I was going to say a fat kid loves cake, but so overused. Sorry for the drug reference, I just read “A Million Little Pieces” ironically enough when I was drinking similarly to an alcoholic….I promise I am not a drug user or an alcoholic….people that drink wine alone cannot be considered alcoholics right? They’re just classy.)

4     If I hear a noise in the dark, do not investigate what it is. I will sleep much more soundly if I do not know the scary ass monster bugs that are living in my house. I keep the can of doom next to my bed just in case I need to murder a huge bug in the worst possible way; a slow horribly painful death by chemicals that should never even be allowed anywhere near humans. Speaking of which, I should put this can high out of children’s reach before I have to have a much more depressing lessons learned blog post.

5       The rules of the dark also apply to my toilet. If it is dark, do not go in. Just pee in the yard, it is much safer. I do not wish to see the tarantula (later confirmed dead, and still there, I like to look at it now that it’s dead), weird scaly thing I hoped was a lizard, and the biggest cockroaches that could possibly be on the planet. 
6  
           Trying to dry clothes during the rainy season is almost impossible. But leaving them on the line during the rain is probably the closest they have had to a real wash in a long time. So it is good to wash clothes on rainy days. Eventually they will dry.

7    When running past Khomera (where the clinic is located) I will feel like a marathon pacer. Every time children run next to me I love to sprint, just to remind them I am bigger and better than they are. I think this is important lesson to teach children. While playing with them I do not let them win, I instead beat them horribly and do a celebration that would be illegal in the NFL. Life lessons; kid, you are going to lose often, and someone will always be better than you, get over it. Anyway, running past Khomera is good for interval training, and a self-esteem booster. I do not race many people, but small children; game on!

8       I am becoming a Malawian. I saw Azungu (white people today) I think I stared as much as the locals did. I have not yet started shouting, “How are you?! Give me money!! Give me bottle!! Give me sweetie!! Where are you going?! Where do you come from?!” Give it a few more months I am sure I will be yelling at white people and chasing after cars, just like the village kids.

9     Speaking of cars, apparently they are now more exciting than I am to the kids in my village. I swear if this kid could speak English he would have said, “Bitch move! I am trying to look at the car, not your white ass.” They are so rude sometimes; don’t they realize how exciting I really am?!

       Being in a village in Malawi means people talk about me. So far my reputation includes being a runner and a baby lover. I will accept both of those titles. Because of seeing me with babies on my back people now run up to me and shove their babies at me. They also shout, “Kendall! Kendall! Baby!!” While holding their babies in the air for me to see. I am not going to say I hate it.

      Wear closed toe shoes. My solar panel did not work one day due to rain, so my phone and laptop were dead. I decided to go see the children catching bugs. I was warned about the bugs on the ground, they will pinch. I thought whatever, not a big deal. Then I felt one on my foot. I kicked in attempt to get it off. I thought I had successfully avoided the bug, and then it latched on. I may have overreacted. One; I didn't expect it to be so painful. Two: I did not expect it to stay attached to my foot. I threw my lantern and started kicking and slapping at my foot frantically. Of course everyone thought it was the funniest thing they have ever seen. I do not blame them; I know I was a bit dramatic about the situation (but there was actually a lot of blood for a bug bite! And I still have a mark!). Now my reputation includes being afraid of bugs.

1     Walking on mud is similar to walking on ice. Especially with flip-flops on. I had my first (certainly will not be my last) fall the other day. I figure I am going to have some good core strength from all of the balancing I have to do. Also it is important to allow extra travel time when it is muddy. It takes about twice as long to get anywhere!

1     That cool camp shower I bought does not work. I forget to account for the fact that the ceiling in my bathroom is very short, therefore the water does not come out unless I squat (thank god nobody saw me attempting to use it!). Also leaving it in the sun all day makes the water hot, but it must also leak. So I have given up and am sticking with cold bucket showers. I will have to start heating the water soon I think. It is already pretty damn cold. Taking the shower as fast as I can is the key to getting through.

1     Children think tampons are sweets or toys. Seeing them run around with my used tampon applicators and wrappers is a bit disturbing. It is important to quickly take them from the children and sternly tell them no. Also it is important to watch what they are doing when they go into my yard. Rummaging through my trash is also not acceptable.


I think that concludes my lessons learned. As you can tell I never learn lessons the easy way. Maybe I will start taking more caution and thinking some things through before I do them. Well that is a nice thought, but it is never going to happen.  

South Africa

As you all know for Christmas and New Year I traveled to South Africa with some friends I met at Ripple.
First I met Emily in Lilongwe and we headed to Johannesburg via the bus, yes I am far too cheap to fly. The bus was about 38 hours. But it was not terrible. We each had two seats, they were playing movies, and we had some snacks. We now wish we would have taken more food. We had been told the bus was going to stop for meals, yeah that didn't happen. We had chicken and chips at 7am the first morning, then stopped once for some beef and nsamia. It was not too pleasant. We then arrived at Johannesburg around 7pm that night. I was in shock to be in such a big city! I had not been out of rural Africa for six months. After living one month in the village, really roughing it, I was more than ready to get out! We made it to our hotel, it was the nicest hotel I have ever been in, and it was only $20 dollars per night. I was so excited to have a real shower and toilet (which Emily so kindly reminded me that these toilets you do not stand on, you can sit to go to the bathroom), nice sheets, food that was cooked for me, a drink, and an escape from the bugs.
The next day Anna and Emma met us at the hotel. They have been traveling through Africa for three weeks before. We went out and explored town. That night we went up to the roof to have a few drinks before dinner. It was really pretty and had some good drinks so we decided we would come back. Well when we came back they asked for a 100 rand (a little less than $10) cover charge. Being the girl that has been in the village I talked everyone into it. I told them to get all the free drinks we could and our cover would be paid for. We came in and were immediately given free glasses of champagne; I think some of us might have snuck a second one. Then we were invited to the VIP room. There was a “rapper” in the VIP room, he had tons of champagne and hundred dollar bills hanging out of his pocket. I may have told him later that is not even their currency so it looks that much dumber, I am always so sweet.
I decided I was done with the party; I had done my dancing and was ready for bed. I told the girls I would see them later. I went to get into my floor to discover I was locked out. I went to the desk and he had to call a guy to get the key, I went with him to the guy’s room to retrieve said key. Then as we were going up to my room I kept talking about how badly I wanted McDonald’s. The hotel employee said, well you can go get it if you want. I said it is unsafe! He said just empty everything from your bag except the money you need. I asked if we could get somebody to take me, he said he would find somebody. We were still discussing this in front of the elevator when a guy overheard and said, “I will take you anywhere you want to go.” I just stared blankly and said, “Not sure what you mean by that, but I want McDonalds.” He said fine, I asked what his name was, he said Simba. I said, “I will call you Mufasa.” He said, “Don’t.” So we went off to McDonalds, it was about a two minute walk from the hotel. During this time the girls tried to come back to the room. I guess they went to the front desk looking for me. The man said, oh yes, she has gone to McDonalds. They gave the concierge their valuables and came looking for me. They gave the security guard the description of an American girl, with a little bun, a short black skirt and a stripey top. He said he had not seen me. So they went in and ordered McDonalds and asked the lady with the same description if she had seen me, when they added, “she probably ordered chicken nuggets” she immediately remembered who I was. This probably had something to do with the fact that I had yelled, “Of course you do not have honey mustard! I knew you would do this to me!!!” So the girls came back to the hotel to find me in the room eating my chicken nuggets. I still have no idea how I gained so much weight before I came to Africa.

Then we were off to Port Elizabeth, we took an overnight bus there. It was a nice town on the beach. We went for a run, ate some fish and chips, made Mexican food, drank wine, and watched The Croods. It was a nice relaxing day. The next day we rented a car and set off to Jefferys Bay. This is where we spent Christmas. We spent a lot of time on the beach, ate at a Mexican restaurant (I found it on wikitravel, it was highly recommended), went to a bar where Anna convinced the most angry DJ ever to play the Christmas music on her phone (I think he was a little upset when “O Happy Day” played by accident, by we were having a great time), and went for an extremely difficult beach run. It was a good time.
Then we headed down the Garden Route. South Africa is a beautiful country! The best hike we did was Robberg National Park. I found it was one of the top things to do on Trip Advisor. We made the mistake of not setting off until around 11 for our walk, so it was pretty hot out. We took a picnic and ate at the top of a rocky hill where we could watch the Cape Fur Seals below us. The hike was very interesting and at times a bit scary. Towards the end we came out to a very secluded beach, I thought this is exactly where they fly contestants to on the bachelor for their dates. Maybe Nikki will be visiting Robberg soon! It was hands down the most beautiful place I have ever been. The whole hike was along the side and sometimes up a cliff right next to the ocean. It was almost too much to handle. But being hot we walked fast.
We ended up staying two nights at a caravan park. I thought this was the best thing ever! We cooked dinner and relaxed at night while we went hiking during the day. Then we got to Mossel Bay, we stayed at a backpackers there, it was a cool place and everyone was really friendly. We went out to dinner and had the worst service imaginable, we were starving so we asked for bread, our waitress said, “Go help yourself, it is on the buffet line.” We had not paid for buffets. But we took what she said to heart and had three loaves, one we took for breakfast the next morning; I also stole her pen as a form of protest. We felt like hard core criminals.
Then it was off to Cape Town, we took a quick detour on the way to Betty’s Bay. I had to see the penguins! I am sure nobody thought my chanting, “Penguins, penguins, penguins, penguins!!” was annoying at all. We saw the Jackass Penguins, they were cute and some were jackasses, they really need a lesson in bullying. I was so mad that we had to stand behind fences though! I wanted a picture sitting next to a penguin. Seeing those fences were when I realized all of my dreams had been shattered.
We arrived at Cape Town that afternoon. We stayed with Emma’s friend from college and another one of their friends was visiting. It was New Year’s Eve Eve. I thought this meant we would take the night easy, the next day was going to be a big one! I was so wrong. We had a bbq, which included ostrich burgers, it was meat, and therefore I loved it. Then the shots came out. I hate tequila so I protested, I made the terrible choice of saying, “I will do anything but tequila.” This was made into a challenge. I had a mystery shot presented to me about a minute later. My warning was do not smell it, it will make it worse. I took about half of the shot and immediately vomited in his garden. It was gin. I forgot how much I hated gin. After my little throwing up in my new friend’s garden I was the first one to bed (as I was many nights, I am getting old and live in a village. Give me a break!).
New Year’s eve, we went hiking up Lion’s Head. We all started off feeling a bit rough that morning but we successfully sweated out all of the alcohol and made it to the top. The views from the top were amazing! Then we returned to “the hotel” and got prepared for New Year’s. We went and had a late lunch/early dinner with some drinks and a yagar bomb, oh those are not normal to have at five in the afternoon? Then we got ready and headed off to the botanical gardens to ring in the New Year. Our evening started out very civilized and we had a very small area to put our blanket on and (crappy, according to the boys) picnic on. As we started drinking more, our area magically got bigger. Next thing I knew we had so much free space. I think our neighbors were not having the same kind of night we were. But we had a good one that is for sure! It was amazing to spend a New Year’s Eve not in a crowded bar waiting in line for drinks. I think it will be a hard one to top!
New Year’s Day somebody had the bright idea of going wine tasting all day. I had slept about two hours and then was wide awake, so feeling a bit rough. It was a long day, somebody was sick at the first tasting (I will leave out names here), and the rest of us were dragging. I finally called it quits and ordered a diet coke and a jug of water at the fifth winery. I was ready to call it a day!
We declared the second of January an alcohol free day; it was like the heavens open up and the angels starting singing. I had never heard words so sweet. We decided to go spend the day on the beach and go out for Pad Thai that night. It was a good and relaxing day.
So we came to Friday, of course we were going out. We spent the day wandering around town and did a little bit of shopping. Then it was time to go home get ready and start drinking. We went out on Long Street; I had a great night of dancing! That is all I ever want to do. It was fun to be out at bars that are like home, I do not think the nights I have gone out in Mzuzu really count as going out. It is fun, but not the same. At the end of the night I of course thought I needed food. To McDonalds on the way home it was. I ordered 20 chicken nuggets this time, I decided I would accept the fact they do not have honey mustard in South Africa and stick to BBQ. I had to give one chicken nugget away on the ride home, so I decided I would eat the rest of them away from everybody else. I always hate when people take my food, when I am sober I can hide this really well and know that it is polite to share. After a few drinks that etiquette goes out the window, I become pretty similar to a dog that always has to eat around other dogs. I guard it and shovel it in as fast as I can. Yeah it really is a mystery why at home I do not lose weight no matter how much I run.
Our trip was then coming to an end. The last thing we had on the agenda was cage diving with the great white sharks. I was so excited to do this! Our ride was coming to pick us up at 5:00 am. About seven months ago I would have said, “Holy shit! 5am?! Never mind I am not going!” Now I wake up without an alarm not long after 5, so we were up and ready to go bright and early. We had a couple hour shuttle drive out to Gainsbay the great white shark capitol of the world. We boarded the boat and set out. On this trip was a very annoying man from New York. I have never realized how annoying Americans are until you see them in another country. He knew everything about everything; if you had done it, he had done it three times. He spoke louder than any person I have ever met. You know the type. He had some young pretty wife, who laughed at the dumbest jokes I have ever heard, so I am assuming he is loaded. I of course could not even muster a fake smile at his, “Now stay back ladies, I am a married man!” when he took off his clothes to put on his wetsuit. Anyway, after everyone was wetsuited up (How I Met Your Mother reference, sorry I watch a lot of TV on DVD), we waited for a shark. The visibility was so terrible you could not see anything a more than a foot down. So we were told sharks could be circling the bottom and we would not know unless they surfaced. To attract the sharks, they throw chum (fish guts) out into the water. When the shark comes close they have huge fish heads on a rope they throw out and try to bring the shark as close into the boat as possible. At first we did not see anything, and then our driver said he was taking a chance and moving because it was going to get very choppy soon. Once we moved near a different boat we saw they had some sharks. It was so cool to watch them come up out of the water in attempt to get the fish head. Our guide put our cage down so we could get in. I was in the first group to go in. The cage was very different from what I expected. It was half above water and half below; we did not have scuba gear, just a mask. I got in the cage and realized I was too short to reach the bottom, we were shoved tight in the cage like sardines (a perfect snack for a shark), my mask kept fogging up, when I went under I could see nothing, and the waves kept hitting me in the face. I felt like a trapped animal, I wanted out! I waited a few minutes and decided I could not see anything anyway so I asked to come out. It turned out the boat was a great place for viewing anyway. Poor Emma was seasick the whole time, so she did not last very long in the cage either. But Anna stayed in for a long time. Her persistence paid off, a massive great white came right and basically smashed into the side of the cage when she was in it. I was able to get a picture! Taking pictures was really hard because you had to time it just right, you could see the shark for about 1-2 seconds before it came out of the water and it was only out of the water for about the same length of time. So I was pretty proud of some of the pictures I got!
That concluded our trip. Anna and I set off on the bus back to Malawi (she is staying at Ripple until summer, Emma went home, and Emily is traveling with her sister). I had some difficulty with the borders on the way back. First was out of South Africa. When arriving in South Africa I was with Emily, they asked her how long she was staying, she said till the 5th, they asked me the same I first said the 6th and then quickly said oh wait I need two more days after that. I forgot that my bus left from Cape Town but just took me to Johannesburg which was still in the country. Well she did not change the dates, I did not realize until after we were out of line, the line was very long! It took us hours to get through in the first place. I figured you get 30 visitors visa free so it should not be a big deal. Well when I went to leave, they saw my visa was only good till the 6th, I was yelled at and had to stand with a bunch of other people whom had overstayed their visas. The woman was a complete bitch. Alright I get that she is just doing her job and gave me a fine, whatever, I was not worried about that. It was just her attitude. She said, “I am fining you 1000 Rand (about 100 usd).” I said, “Ok but I do not have that money on me now.” She yelled, “You pay when you come back!” I got a bit louder and had a bit more attitude, “I am not coming back. I am staying in Malawi.” She and another woman both started yelling at me, “You are staying in Malawi FOREVER?!” I wanted to say something a bit different than I did, I basically said I am staying for about a year more and have no plans to return to South Africa, it was just a vacation. The woman said, “Well what would be best is if you never came back!” Talk about hospitality. So I had to sit with a bunch of people and wait to sign my paper saying I would pay the fine before I returned to the country. I figure there are more places to visit other than South Africa and Illinois (unpaid speeding ticket) right? The bus host, kind of like a stewardess on a plane, was the same man I had when I travelled down. He told me the woman was just angry because her husband is not the right size, I always knew I liked him. Well we finally made it through and were back on the bus. All was smooth until Malawi. I found out my temporary resident visa I just bought before I left, expires the moment I leave the country. This made me furious because the woman whom issued it to me told me I could travel with it and it would be fine. I have to now get a new one which is another 80 usd! I am still annoyed, maybe they will tell me something different in the Lilongwe office, I can only hope! So finally after five days and approximately 60 hours of bus time we had made it back to Lilongwe. The next day Anna and I went separate ways; I did some shopping and headed back to the village.

Being in South Africa made me think about how hard it is to live in the village. What was the most difficult for me was cooking over an open fire. I could easily start the fire, it was keeping it going while trying to prepare food inside. After running I would not even want to bother making a fire, I would go to bed without eating instead. I was skipping meals quite frequently due to this issue, cooking over a fire three times a day while working is just too difficult. One morning Mr. Mhango came over while I was trying to start my fire, everything had gotten wet because of the rain, I was so hungry and on the verge of tears. He recommended I start using charcoal. It has made a world of difference! The only problem is it still takes a long time. But I usually start the charcoal about an hour before I want to start cooking and I can leave it and do other things. I can also bring the little stove in my house and cook inside! So that part is much easier. I think the rest I just am used to. I have so many clothes, that I do not need to wash them frequently and now I can wash dishes while I am waiting for charcoal to heat up. I also think the beginning is always the hardest part. I am doing many things I have never done before, like cooking over a fire, bathing out of a bucket, and washing all of my clothes by hand. I also believe the rewards are so great that it does not seem like a struggle while I am here. I am loving my boring, very sober (I thought I would never want to drink again after South Africa, but now I think I need a box of wine to keep in the house.), kid filled life. At night I am doing workouts with the kids or going for a run, cook my dinner, am in bed watching a movie by seven thirty and constantly watch the clock trying to decide if it is too early to go to sleep. Most nights I decide by 8:45 it is fine to turn off the movie. I could not be any happier! I do need my time away and to socialize with friends though! After South Africa I feel refreshed and ready to work. Next week I am going to some schools to do HIV education. I am excited to spread a positive message about HIV, cut down on bullying, and increase testing and safer sexual behavior. Let’s hope it does not all go horribly!